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Mugler A/W 2011

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For his debut womenswear show as creative director at Theirry Mugler, Nicola Formichetti called on his friend and top client, Lady Gaga, to lead the proceedings and cause a twitter frenzy. The show referenced much of Thierry Mugler’s signature peaked shoulders but had the and Formichetti’s unmistakable, skin tight with towering tall platform heels edge.

Although Gareth Pugh opted for a fashion show with catwalk, in the traditional sense, the results were still no less spectacular. In fact, after two seasons of watching the designer’s work in the form of boundary pushing films, it was exciting to see his unique mixture of materials storming the runway again. Using not only his signature black, Pugh also used flashes of cobalt blue and gold, two colours that were also seen in his precollection, to give a fresh feel to his work. The silhouettes that he used also seemed more defined and as if the designer is finally making more headway trying to find a balance between his own creativity and commercial viability. The collection seemed very wearable and the huge wedged heels reinforced Pugh’s “polished punk” style that had a lot of the audience transfixed as the likes of Karlie Kloss marched down the runway to the thumping techno music.

With a front row including Diane Pernet, Suzie Bubble, Scott Shulman and Garance Dore’ it is evident that Damir Doma’s unique style is one that is starting to strike a chord with the more style savvy fashion forward folk. This season he mixed sharp tailored pieces with softer, fluid shapes and whilst the designer’s style is definitely minimalist, the clever combination of loose with more constructed shapes made for complex and interesting viewing.

Jimmy Choo’s Fall/Winter 2011 collection includes not only the brand’s signature staples in basic black but also mixes heels in jewel toned hues, neutral colored suede platform pumps with crystal encrusted heels and boots in fur, feathers and different exotic skins like python and crocodile.
The label have also introduced a new bag shape which has a rectangular plate, reminiscent of a vintage lighter, for its main clasp closure. Another interesting bag is studded with metal stars and signs of the zodiac; very rock chic! The Rosalie, one the key bags in the collection, remains one of the most popular pieces and this winter it will come in eel skin as well as luxe python.
One of the three “themed collections” for fall also features pieces inspired by model Veruschka, sending out a very bohemian vibe. Included are a whip stitched leather bag with fur and a woven fringed, open toe bootie. The overall feel of the collection is very luxurious and rich.
By The Bag Hag

Up on cold mountain, Dean & Dan used the same moutaineer theme of their menswear show, for their A/W 2011 womenswear collection. Their usual mix of denims and leather was worked with strong “true grit” attitude as the models strutted the catwalk, that included a log cabin and snow effects just to help them really get into character. The stylish layering of maxi skirts with cropped jackets echoed the new, longer silhouette that we’ve seen this week and the thick furs were perfect for the arctic mountain feel! The successor to the wacky, but incredibly successful, bone heel shoes came in the shape of a restructured ice skate that, although a little abstract, stayed in tune with the artic theme and as we saw “fashion maniac” Anna dello Russo leaving with her very own pair after the show, we are sure to see them on fashion pages everywhere come A/W 2011.

Maybe it was the influence of stylist Panos Yiapanis, who has recently moved to Cavalli, but the A/W 2011 collection definitely has a darker edge. This new, slightly tough and even more punk, feel gave Cavalli’s collection a new lease of life. The floating transparent skirts worked the signature leopard prints in new ways and the hand stitched brocade was used in a tougher way than we’ve seen before. It would seem Cavalli’s rock princess has found a new, darker and all together more modern and relevant path that was a refreshing offering from the historic italian label.

Come front row and backstage with us at the Versus A/W 2011 show in Milan, as we talk to Christopher Kane about some of the themes in the collection.

The highly anticipated Jil Sander Autumn/Winter womenswear show opened to howling winds and furious tweeting about Raf Simon’s bold move to reinvent the salopette. The incredible wedged heels that had a neat slit in them so that the skinny, down hill racer style, trousers could be easily looped through, were the perfect example of the attention to detail that the designer displayed throughout the whole colletion. The carefully balanced looks managed to reference couture style cuts with volumous shapes yet maintain a soft almost sporty tone.

Going back to the houses roots might mean heritage prints, but for Versace it is not quite the type of print normally associated with the word “heritage”! The bold baroque motif that curled around the sides of a lot of the collections pieces, was a nod to the houses history; as were the bold colours and chunky, logoed gold metal hardware used on the coats, dresses and bags. With a great mix of dresses in numerous lengths and cuts, the show opened with sharp, military style tailoring and closed with long, flowing gowns with feather trim that added a slightly softer edge to a very strong collection.

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