One to watch, Damir Doma, grabbed out attention with his fresh play on proportions and lengths. His shapes were cleaner than we’ve seen from the award winning designer in the past and we were happy that we got to catch up with him and talk to him a bit about the new collection backstage after the show:
Kris Van Assche had a sporty yet elegant vision for Spring/Summer 2011/12, a collection, he said, that was playing with the idea of making the suit cool again. We went backstage before the show and afterwards we spoke to the designer about his inspirations and the reason he chose an amazing track by the Pixies for the show. Check it out right here:
With large crowds gathering outside the unassuming building Maison Martin Margiela chose to show their A/W 2011/12 collection in, we weren’t suprised to spot lots of hardcore fans of the cult label. The show had a unique theme, instead of a catwalk the label chose to take us “backstage” and onto a set created to look as if the models were being prepared for their exits, as a twist, the catwalk was thus backstage! Almost like an english upstairs/downstairs story, the backstage idea was certainly novel and provided the audience with more time than usual to study the clothes. The coats and jackets were particularly interesting and came in a variety of cuts, sizes and fabrics. There was also a seventies edge to the collection which echoed the general sentiment of the season.
Vivienne Westwood left us speechless with her succinct explanation of her Autumn/Winter 2011/12 menswear collection and we were fortunate enough to get a video of it just for you!
Roberto Cavalli’s inimitable brand of seventies inspired rock chic took on a more subtle tone this season. As the Jim Morrison-esque models strutted down the catwalk we saw sharp tailored suits in softer tones, the signature animalier prints reduced to silk foulards tied elegantly round the neck. The long over coats and fedora hats added a more austere feeling to Tony Ward’s multiple exits but there were always little flashes of fur to keep us all aware of the true essence of the Italian houses legendary glam style.
Christopher Bailey’s amazing vision for Burberry Prorsum comes through so clearly in his menswear line. Yet whilst moving the brand forward, he always pays homage to the historic label’s roots and the traditional elements that originally made it’s name. The idea of heritage was clear this season in the choice of materials and hints of classic Burberry prints that were sent down the runway. The absolute key item in this collection was a fabulous jacket or coat. From trenches to military and pea coats as well as those with fur edging, outer wear was big for Bailey this season as he effectively created a collection that could adapt to all weather conditions. There was also a definite sixties feel present in the fur caps, skinny suits and rock sound track. The whole look was given a modern – very english – update with chunky knits and stylish shoes that grabbed lots of attention and also served a practical purpose; helping the models not to fall whilst walking through their drizzly finale!