Up on cold mountain, Dean & Dan used the same moutaineer theme of their menswear show, for their A/W 2011 womenswear collection. Their usual mix of denims and leather was worked with strong “true grit” attitude as the models strutted the catwalk, that included a log cabin and snow effects just to help them really get into character. The stylish layering of maxi skirts with cropped jackets echoed the new, longer silhouette that we’ve seen this week and the thick furs were perfect for the arctic mountain feel! The successor to the wacky, but incredibly successful, bone heel shoes came in the shape of a restructured ice skate that, although a little abstract, stayed in tune with the artic theme and as we saw “fashion maniac” Anna dello Russo leaving with her very own pair after the show, we are sure to see them on fashion pages everywhere come A/W 2011.
Maybe it was the influence of stylist Panos Yiapanis, who has recently moved to Cavalli, but the A/W 2011 collection definitely has a darker edge. This new, slightly tough and even more punk, feel gave Cavalli’s collection a new lease of life. The floating transparent skirts worked the signature leopard prints in new ways and the hand stitched brocade was used in a tougher way than we’ve seen before. It would seem Cavalli’s rock princess has found a new, darker and all together more modern and relevant path that was a refreshing offering from the historic italian label.
Come front row and backstage with us at the Versus A/W 2011 show in Milan, as we talk to Christopher Kane about some of the themes in the collection.
The highly anticipated Jil Sander Autumn/Winter womenswear show opened to howling winds and furious tweeting about Raf Simon’s bold move to reinvent the salopette. The incredible wedged heels that had a neat slit in them so that the skinny, down hill racer style, trousers could be easily looped through, were the perfect example of the attention to detail that the designer displayed throughout the whole colletion. The carefully balanced looks managed to reference couture style cuts with volumous shapes yet maintain a soft almost sporty tone.
Going back to the houses roots might mean heritage prints, but for Versace it is not quite the type of print normally associated with the word “heritage”! The bold baroque motif that curled around the sides of a lot of the collections pieces, was a nod to the houses history; as were the bold colours and chunky, logoed gold metal hardware used on the coats, dresses and bags. With a great mix of dresses in numerous lengths and cuts, the show opened with sharp, military style tailoring and closed with long, flowing gowns with feather trim that added a slightly softer edge to a very strong collection.
We headed backstage at the massive ice rink that Etro chose as the venue for their Autumn/Winter 2011 show and spoke to Charlotte Tilbury, the famous make up artist, about the inspiration for the models make up that worked perfectly with the signature Etro bohemian print layers.
Antonio Marras’ ode to his mother resonated with nostalgia but also a strong respect for women, somewhat of a hot topic in Italy at the moment. The show had a forties feel, with longer lengths skirts, soft beehive hair dos and floral prints. The beautiful chunky platforms put the models up high and were clearly symbollic of the pedestal on which Marras placed his mother. Each look exuded a kind of soft glamour, evident in the transparent pleated silks and loosely deconstructed jackets. There was also an element of masculine tailoring that gave the soft looks a refined feel and demonstrated Marras’ keen eye and precision, even if he chooses to present it in a somewhat unassuming way.
A bold mix of colours and letters, D&G’s lively collection brought a burst of energy to the Metropol. With a front row mixing fashion heavy weights such as Mario Testino, Anna Piaggi and Jefferson Hack with the blogging new wave like, Anna dello Russo, Suzie Bubble and Bryan Boy, the show was a veritable mix of stylish, fun pieces. Flowing transparent silks were contrasted with fitted knitwear and topped off with high heeled trainers that were reminiscent of the early ’90s. Closing with a series of multi coloured feather skirts, the show was a feast for the eyes and managed to combine the bold colours with darker layers of knitwear. D&G’s body con signature styles were also integrated in with some looser, softer elements.