Rick Owens couture?! We spoke to Diane Pernet at the Rick Owens Spring/Summer 2012 show about the designers expansion of his aesthetic, a growing attention to detail and shapes that show his style is becoming more refined.
Taking a travelling explorer as her point of reference, Ann Demeulemeester gave her signature deconstructed shapes an eastern infused twist for Spring/Summer 2012. Adding tassles and small mandarin collars to add a hint of the adventures and sights her slightly ethereal figure may have seen, the designers tailoring was even looser as it was in softer, transparent fabrics that drifted down the sand covered catwalk with only a few gillets and leather pieces, such as wide brimmed hats, to hold them in place.
Our Jewellery buyers just sent us these pictures from the latest Delfina Delettrez collection that they loved and, they’re so good, we just had to share them! Inspired by the darker, more brooding side of the 17th Century, Delfina’s latest collection is displayed on these amazing hair pieces and wigs created especially for Spring/Summer 2012 by a famous Roman boutique salon who normally create pieces for films. The Rococo style jewellery glistens on the mannequins and manages to stand out to create quite a statement that we loved for it’s totally original approach.
Speaking to Nicola Formichetti backstage after his second Mugler show, the designer explained that this season wasn’t about looking into the Thierry Mugler archives but using his own memories of what the brand meant to him as a child he had played with new colours and shapes. This might explain why this season’s tamer, sophisticated palette was a world away from the harsh blacks that we saw last season and more, “something my mother would wear” said Formichetti, making it almost seem tame and sophisticated. However, although the silhouettes were more streamlined there were still lots of carefully placed cut outs to make the clothes stand out and appeal to his cult fans, many of whom rushed to congratulate him backstage after show, dressed head to toe in the last collection.
Watch the Rochas show from the front row with the Vogue US and Italia teams out in force as this fashion house that has a bit of a bumpy history is gaining more interest thanks to the genius of head designer, Marco Zanini.
For Spring/Summer 2012 Damir Doma showed us the sensual side of his fast evolving woman, from the stronger, almost sportier aesthetic of last season the designer has taken a step back from a warrior-esque femal figure and this season there is something softer and more ethereal about her almost. Using chunky jewellery so that she didn’t “fly away” the designer pointed towards a sexier silhouette and although he included some of his trade marks, long draped asymmetric cuts, block shapes and hems which are longer at the back, that have gained him a cult following, this collection seemed much more wearable and will hopefully attract a wider audience to sit up and take note of this interesting designer who is growing and evolving to create more complex, beautiful work each season.
The Italians are famous for their style and Milan during fashion week is when the city’s streets are filled with lovals making sure that they look their best. Being Italian an all, we wanted to make sure that we got a great mix of insiders and style experts to tell us what it is that they love about this traditional meets modern and always oh so glamorous style that has become so famous throughout the world. Watch our video from backstage, outside the shows and talking to the likes of Giovanna Battaglia, Tommy Ton, Jo Elvin, Chiara Ferragni and Anna dello Russo about why italians do it better!
Eva Cavalli talked to us backstage about this season’s multi faceted Cavalli girl and explained a bit about the eye popping prints that came down the catwalk as well as the show stopping dresses with incredible sequin applique’.
It’s of the erotic, the exotic, and of the super- exposed for shoes at Sergio Rossi this Spring/ Summer 2012.
As usual, Francesco Russo knows how to play with the sensuality of the foot– creating bondage effects with ropes of silk or elastic which snake up around the leg. When it comes to the exotic, there were carved cotton lilies and pistils with embroidered details in solid bright reds and oranges as well as in Japanese kimono-esque style, all of which are perfect for that Spring/ Summer afternoon party, then for night time, the carved lilies with crystal embellishments. ”Super- exposed” came in the form of fluo- colored and color- blocked pumps or sandals for the days or nights you would like your feet to take center stage.
The clean and uncomplicated handbag comes in an array of colors and textures– from thick colored canvas to supple leather, rock chic studs, and exotic python. Exquisite compact clutches in exotic python skin came in jewel tones, highlighted by the twisted gold rope designs which formed a central diamond design.
It’s a high tension clash and a meeting of the extremes for this collection– but one that ended up coming together beautifully.
By: Ingrid Chua, The Bag Hag Diaries