The fact that as the rest of the fashion world embraces the return of bold colour, Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy sends out a collection centred around black, shown only with white tailoring, head-to-toe beige and reworked leopard print tells us something; Givenchy is not a house of trends, its ideals lay elsewhere.
Firstly, and without question there is the archives and the heritage. Next up, and perhaps more predominant these days, is the vision of Tisci himself. Seeped in dark-romanticism with religious and art references abound, Tisci has slowly and steadily introduced his own codes to the Givenchy crypt. The Spring Summer 2011 collection was no exception.
The stand out story was the vest. A clever way to keep sharp tailoring in a collection proposed for the warmer months. Paired with the vests which ranged from the ruffled and buckled to just the simple beauty of a sleeveless jacket body, were long sheer skirts. Leopard prints were shown as a subtle tone-on-tone pattern and also spliced onto tops, adding a distinctive lick to the layered look.
By Scott Stephenson
Vivienne Westwood Reminds Us It’s Never Too Late
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By the time Dame Vivienne Westwood herself had done her little swagger down the runway to close the show, all was forgiven. She had a tense crowd in her hands, when things almost ran late by 2 hours. In a fashion week calendar that runs from one show to another without barely enough time to breathe (or dare we say, eat!) in-between shows, there was a lot of impatient toe-tapping going on.
Needless to say, these things happen. Rain, a grid locked Paris and a late show before hand were beyond Westwood’s control.
Once things got underway though it was a bustling, bust-up of everything brilliant about the Westwood world. Boxy shirts, with spangly vests led into tartans, bold accessories, heart shapes, candy stripes, and taffeta plumes. Vivienne’s trusty little bag of tricks was emptied out before us, with a blast of freshness coming courtesy of the colours, fabrics and silhouettes. Wrapped and somewhat alarming (in a surgical bandage kind-of-way) head contraptions were perhaps the strangest addition to a collection that focused on the past, the present, and climate change as stated in the show notes.
She might have been late to start the show, but at the end of the day the mention of climate change reminds us all that there are actually bigger things to worry about. And it’s never too late to start making a change.
By Scott Stephenson
Lanvin Looks Far, Wide and Firmly Towards The Future
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With each passing season, Lanvin continues to define itself as a brand, a house, and a legend in a league of its own; here in Paris now, the iconic label which began womenswear in 1909, has never felt more relevant.
Sure, a few good collections and you may just be lucky or extremely well-timed, we know that. But with hit after hit and an ever-increasing profile on the radiating fashion radar, there is quite clearly a genius at play within the Lanvin maison. That mastermind who conducts the wizardry of undeniably a phenomenal team effort is Alber Elbaz. Fashions most endearing and delightful designer, who has managed to conjure up one enviable and consistently desirable (to buyers and clients alike) signature touch.
For the Spring Summer 2011 collection, the signature was kept alive and coated in a perfect interpretation of the current mood in fashion. The line and shapes were minimal without being devoid of the human hand and still entirely agile. Luxe embellishment was aligned and neat, meaning excessiveness was never a consideration, and the colours were every bit manageable, from earthen neutrals to, simmering jewel tones. All of this is the kind of evidence which suggest a global brand with wide-thinking appeal.
Women the world over just cannot get enough.
By Scott Stephenson
Photos by Sandra Pressinger
Our buyers report back from Milan Fashion Week with these stunning pictures of the Fendi show. Long skirts, flowers and bright colours, such as purple, turquoise and orange, seem to be a recurring trend for the upcoming season. The accessories were a definite favourite, especially the bags and the sunglasses.
A beautiful pastel coloured show from Preen. We’re loving the below-the-knee skirts!
Just a glimpse of all the hustle and bustle of backstage after a runway show….
Alexander Wang Spring 2011
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Definitely a new looks for Alexander Wang: amazing grungy shoes, white silky graffiti trench coats and lots of fresh colours. Very nineties! Our buyers are liking Wang’s new direction!
Front Row and First Impression
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Pier 94 is packed full of celebrities impatiently awaiting the Alexander Wang‘s Spring 2011 runway show. Check out Silvano and Ania’s snaps….
More from New York’s Fashion Night Out
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Naomi danced the night away at the Dolce & Gabbana store on Madison Avenue celebrating not only Fashion’s Night Out but also Dolce & Gabbana’s 25th anniversary in womenswear design. The Italian designers picked Naomi Campbell as their muse for a line of limited edition t-shirts depicting the black beauty herself, sold exclusively at the boutique in New York.