Derek Lam Spring/Summer 2012

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The rat pack crooning by the pool at a modernist house in Palm Springs was the setting that Derek Lam gave us for his latest collection.  Elegant tailored pieces were paired with  resort ready knits and bright, bold prints in a clever way so that the classic cuts gave the collection a demure feel despite the bright colours and quirky details.  Shimmering dresses interspersed through the show revved up the glamour and showed us that even by the pool side, in Derek Lam’s world, relaxed, sporty pieces can be given a timeless, chic edge.

 

 

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“Less and More” Dior Homme S/S 2012

Posted by slewis in Backstage | Follow The Buyers - (0 Comments)

Watch the “Less and More” Dior Homme Spring/Summer 2012 and come backstage with us as we talk to the hair team and models.

 

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Kris Van Assche S/S 2012

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There was a beautifully calm atmosphere backstage before the Kris Van Assche show as the designer chatted with the stylists and hairdressers and watched the model run through, he even said, that as a consistent worker, at this late stage there were no last minute alterations or changes that he wanted to make. This precise sense of vision is echoed in the designer’s clear aesthetic and this season was no exception.  Still inspired by the LA boys that are making their transition from cool kid to manhood, this time Kris Van Assche presented them with a range of suits that they could wear whilst retaining their infectious, relaxed style.  With more of a 60s mod edge, the silhouette retained the cropped, long rise pants and chunky shoes but was sharpened up a little with slim shirts and flashes of colour that gave the collection a lively edge and broke up the black and grey hues.

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Alexander McQueen A/W 2011

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We are unsure about whether it was the shows eerie location or the beautifully executed collection of regal couture gowns that gave us goose bumps but Sarah Burton’s beautiful collection again prooved why she was chosen for the difficult role and as possible dress designer for a real life queen to be.

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Giambattista Valli A/W 2011

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Beautiful patent flats made Giambattista Valli’s girls look as if they could go from day to night without any fuss. The simple, neat silhouettes echoed this chic paired down vision and made for effortless, stylish dressing perfect for Valli’s jet set following. Occasional flashes of colour and tulle added a playful edge and a little excitement to the proceedings as did the mirrored columns that referenced the collections duality.

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Givenchy A/W 2011 Womenswear Show

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Riccardo Tisci’s exotic combination of orchids, panthers and pin ups wowed his front row that was packed with almost as many famous faces as his runway! Tisci’s collection combined sporty elements with high heels, jewels, leather and sheer fabrics that, although cut to difficult lengths, played an interesting game of hide and seek. The playful feline details made light of the roaring soundtrack and powerful impact that the strong use of colour had when contrasted with the ample use of the colour black. Although used everywhere in this dark collection, the colour black was used by Tisci to it’s full potential, enhancing the mood of this strong, bold collection. After the show we spoke to Anna dello Russo, as well as the models who told us why they had fun looking fierce for Autumn/Winter 2011!

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Yves Saint Laurent A/W 2011

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Sharp, elegant “haute bourgeouis” dressing at it’s finest. This season Stefano Pilati manged to dig deep into the foundations of the Yves Saint Laurent brand whilst bringing the label’s aesthetic forward; not an easy task that’s for sure. Referencing the sixties, we saw neat pea coats and chignons, whilst also being privvy to flashes of the seventies in the form of palazzo pants and rounded jackets as well as an all white finale that brought the designers clean, crisp vision together with great clarity despite the wide mix of decades and references.

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Haider Ackermann A/W 2011

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A small comment from Karl Lagerfeld really helped to raise Haider Ackermann’s profile this week, and anyone present at the designers breathtaking show (which received a standing ovation before it was even, over) would be able to tell you that it did not disappoint. We spoke to Diane Pernet from a Shaded View of Fashion outside the show about what it is that makes this designer so artful in his use of incredible bias cuts and the masterful way in which he uses silks and leather to create unique, elegant silhouettes.

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Dusan Womenswear A/W 2011

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At Dusan’s first even runway show in Paris, long rise leather pants were layered with sporty knitwear and nipped at the waist to create a relaxed but refined silhouette. See our video from the front row and backstage.

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Ann Demeulemeester A/W 2011 Womenswear Show Front Row

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Ann Demeulemeester’s beautifully layered pieces created a strong sense of poetry that may, in part, be because her womenswear collection contained many similar features to her menswear one earlier this season, that was inspired by the poet William Blake. However, for her womenswear show Demeulemeester chose to go even further, with a mythological edge that saw the models in big goats fur coats echoing fauns. The models long legged strides and big doe eyes added further to this image as did the beautiful horse hair extensions that gave them an even more mythical, animal like quality.

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