Our buyers report back from Milan Fashion Week with these stunning pictures of the Fendi show. Long skirts, flowers and bright colours, such as purple, turquoise and orange, seem to be a recurring trend for the upcoming season. The accessories were a definite favourite, especially the bags and the sunglasses.
Definitely a new looks for Alexander Wang: amazing grungy shoes, white silky graffiti trench coats and lots of fresh colours. Very nineties! Our buyers are liking Wang’s new direction!
There is no denying that Celine at the moment is doing well. It took only 3 collections (2 of which were pre-collections) for Phoebe Philo to develop a sound following of clients, positive reviews and extensive editorial coverage. All of which define a successful brand.
Understandably then, the pressure was on and expectations were high for the Fall/Winter 2010 show held on Sunday in Paris. The formula for the success at Celine seems relatively straightforward, simple wearable clothing, with beautiful finishing. But more importantly it is the timing that has really propelled the brand forward.
Fashion is undeniably cyclic in its nature and the way it re-invents itself with almost predictable precision. Celine has provided the perfect antidote (and for some of us, a complete saviour) to the excess and opulence of recent fashion. She has wiped the slate clean. It not only means she can start fresh with her own ideas at Celine rather than trying to expand on what has already been done within the house under previous designers; but it also means women are being offered a new direction – clean, chic, sportswear.
It’s time to pull out the moulded shoulder pads, scrape off the paillettes, loosen the bandages, lower the hemline and add a good dose of genuinely wearable practicality. Slim, reduced coats. Simple elegantly cut silk blouses. Scatterings of leather detailing. Practical chic shoes and accessories. It was all there, rendered in a versatile and lasting palette of, mostly, but not exclusively navy, black, khaki and white.
It’s safe to say, that the high expectations were met.
This is the new luxury.
By Scott Stephenson
Although the venue had an icy draft, coming in from the dark Parisian night outside the red-lit building; the chill which ran down my spine at the beginning of the show, was brought on by the opening look rather than the elements. A clean beige double-breasted coat, worn over a white knit with a high neck, black tailored pants and, jewelled gloves and a clutch in a passionate, resplendent shade of red. It was striking at once.
The dose of paired back severity, against an ornate romanticism remained at a perfect ratio from open to close. It meant that Riccardo Tisci could explore the current mood of fashion in alleviating itself from the opulence, and excess of past seasons, whilst still exploring his own roots as a designer. These broad influences came tied under the idea of ski-wear and scuba-wear. The fair-isle knits, worn tucked into black zippered, peeled down and open dense skirts, were the most obvious example of these references.
The remainder of the collection focused on Tisci’s tailoring. In black leather, black wool and black lace, mixed with jolts of red. Diaphanous streams of silk and feathers kept everything fluid in amongst the jackets and coats. The panelling and proportions seemed right, not too minimal as to seem ordinary or unremarkable, just strong and defiant, yet still relaxed.
Exactly as I imagine the Givenchy woman.
By Scott Stephenson
This season Dolce & Gabbana’s Italian heritage was emphasised through the famous Italian craftsmanship behind the brand. A film of the Italian tailors and tailoresses working on the new collection was played above the catwalk throughout the show and was visible in the great tailored blazers that were all over their runway.
It was a great tribute to the skilled workers who are often left behind the scenes and when they all took a bow at the end it gave our buyers goose bumps…Bravi!
Moving away from the soft colours of the Spring/Summer collection, Donatella’s latest Versace offering was full of bold and bright colours that engaged us. More sculptural than usual with slashed cut outs; zipper detailing added a tough girl biker feel to the collection. Our buyers liked the immaculate presentation and snuck backstage to get a peak behind the scenes……
Geometric military at the packed Givenchy show!