In what can only be described as a fashion blitz, Meadham Kirchhoff found a new way to show their collection and it came in the form of two full on bursts of models that came out in quick succession. The interesting centre pieces that shaped the show space were like shrines, covered in memorabilia, candles and religious iconography that worked well to evoke the designs’ slightly gothic leanings. The duo created more baby-doll-gone-bad style looks, this season working with the theme of uniform, that worked on their infectious, completely unique style. With a colourful take on the “glamorous goth”, the label that partly embodies the style aspirations of Courtney Love, and a large part of Dalston, is beginning to develop a cult like following that is getting bigger season after season.
The Winners of the 2010 British Fashion Awards were announced with a star studded ceremony at the Savoy, London. Attended by some of the most important people in the business, we’ve been going through all the pictures from what looked like a fabulous night of Bristish fashion. We would like to say an especially big congratulations to our friends, Nicholas Kirkwood and Meadham Kirchhoff who won awards for Accessories Designer and Emerging Talent designer respectively. Also a huge round of applause for the wonderful Burberry who won the Digital Innovation category, not forgetting Mulberry who won Best Designer Brand, and rightly so…have you seen the wonderful new metallic Alexa?
The awards also honoured the late, great Alexander McQueen with the Outstanding Achievement in Fashion Design Award whilst the endlessly creative Phoebe Philo took home the coveted BFC Designer of the Year award. Some of our other up and coming english favourites were also in attendance as we spotted Henry Holland, Richard Nicoll and David Koma who was chatting to Tata Naka. We hope everyone had a great night and congratulations to all the winners!
It is no surprise that London continually picks up serious credibility on the international fashion calendar with each passing season. Don’t get us wrong, London has always been an all-things-fashion hub. From the traditions of Savile Row, to the influence of Vivienne Westwood, it’s history is long and note worthy.
The hottest, sharpest and most widely influential editors, critics and buyers are turning up in droves. Filling the front rows, and paying careful attention. One thing they cannot have missed this Spring Summer 2011 season was the riot of colour.
Cue, Christopher Kane‘s searing neons. Beautifully bold blends from Mary Katrantzou. Acidic zaps at Michael van der Ham. And saturated hues by Meadham Kirchhoff.
London’s future is bright!
By Scott Stephenson
We’ve been darting around Paris at a phenomenal speed, fitting in showroom after showroom, and of course the odd coveted fashion show into an almost never-ending schedule.
Luisa and I managed to get to the early showing of Haider Ackermann‘s collection on Saturday, a serene and beautiful show, seeped in exquisite, fluid and technically rigorous garments (Haider if you’re reading this, please start a menswear line soon!). During the same day we also saw Viktor & Rolf put on a show, taking layering to a whole new dimension. We headed back out into the cold Paris air, wishing we had 40 coats on! The Ann Demeulemeester show was next up – cue the dark styling, romantic tailoring and dramatic feathers! Love you Ann! In between the madness of those shows, we managed to buy a bunch of Julien Macdonald, Richard Nicoll, Peter Pilotto and Meadham Kirchhoff. All amazing and all for you guys!
By Sunday morning we were flying around the Lanvin warehouse-size showroom. I for one got a serious workout, doing laps whilst retrieving garments and relaying information between the team. It was tribal, delicious, luxurious, playful and just genuinely amazing. I may have gotten a little emotional at one stage, and I caught myself a few times, just stopping to think of where I was and what I was doing. Still so unbelievable.
But who has time to think, when you have work to do and then shows to get to. Au Revoir Lanvin, Bonjour Celine! See the review by me to get a better understanding of why we love Celine at Luisa Via Roma. The show was followed by a quick lunch, and then it was back to work.
Swung by the Rad Hourani showroom that evening, where I became a model for some menswear pieces (although it’s all unisex really) and found myself wanting it all. “Is that a minimalist, black jacket with slim extra long bunching sleeves, gorgeous collar, transformable details and complimentry amounts of coolness? Why yes, I’ll have four please!”
After they pried me away from the collection, we sped off to the Givenchy show. Headed backstage afterwards to mingle with the talented folks who manage to put such inspiring collections together each season. Bravo all!
Since then we have also attended the Emanuel Ungaro show. Visited the showrooms of: Charlotte Olympia who was offering some serious oh-la-la shoes in daring and fun colours, Michael Angel (a fellow Australian, and more specifically Melbournian!) who we love this season, and Proenza Schouler. And, yes there is more, we also stopped in to see the Giambattista Valli show in which it was nice to see some solid daywear.
If that wasn’t enough (and can you imagine how tired we are?) we also had to fight for our lives at the Balmain showroom yesterday it was that busy, not to mention strain several muscles trying to lift some of those chained, sequined, beaded, jewelled and roped dresses and jackets. Some of them I’m guessing were heavier than the models wearing them! We studied some red-carpet-ready gowns at Nina Ricci and paid a visit to Sandra Backlund. Ending the day with a quiet, relaxing dinner in the Marais district.
In amongst getting to see how life on the inside works, and viewing some of the most influential and important fashion that will ever exist. From designers that I have admired for a long, long, long time, I’ve also had the privilege to start to get to know the team, both here in Paris (including the delightful Graziella, Elisa and Sandra of the accessories and shoes team), and a select few back in Florence (special mention to Camilla!) where Luisa Via Roma is based. They are a big group of friends that always manage to create a dynamic mix of work and play, which comes off as so refreshing in amongst an industry known for its icy reception, at times.
But I can honestly assure you the only thing cold about my time in Paris and with the Luisa Via Roma team, is the weather.
The newest look of the season is laced, armored and stitched together by Meadham Kirchhoff. The two designers, Edward Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff, have a studio in East London’s quaint area of Stoke Newington, where they create these totally weird, yet wearable outfits. The denim jackets and jeans look like armor plating with knee and elbow pads held together by thick laces zippers; other jeans have stashes from top to bottom; and oversize shirts are intertwines with see-through lace. The handmade pieces are works of art. The style is almost gothic and resembles motorcycle gear. The outfits are not for every woman, but for a sophisticated and indomitable yet delicate urban woman.
A selection on the Spring /Summer 2009 is now available online.