The menswear fashion weeks in Paris and Milan have two different, distinct vibes and despite much debate we just cannot decide which we love more! Both cities play host to important, historic fashion brands who show us outstanding collections each season. So, we figured the best thing to do would be to put it to the test by going backstage. Watch our videos from behind the scenes and let us know, which city gets your vote?
The legendary fashion duo, Dolce & Gabbana, are an italian institution. Outside their A/W 2011 womenswear show,at the Metropol in Milan, we caught up with some fashion insiders to see exactly what it is that makes the designers so popular. Our blogger friend the BagHag also let us in on what she loved about the latest collection which is now available for exclusive preorder right here!
With a front row including Diane Pernet, Suzie Bubble, Scott Shulman and Garance Dore’ it is evident that Damir Doma’s unique style is one that is starting to strike a chord with the more style savvy fashion forward folk. This season he mixed sharp tailored pieces with softer, fluid shapes and whilst the designer’s style is definitely minimalist, the clever combination of loose with more constructed shapes made for complex and interesting viewing.
Jimmy Choo’s Fall/Winter 2011 collection includes not only the brand’s signature staples in basic black but also mixes heels in jewel toned hues, neutral colored suede platform pumps with crystal encrusted heels and boots in fur, feathers and different exotic skins like python and crocodile.
The label have also introduced a new bag shape which has a rectangular plate, reminiscent of a vintage lighter, for its main clasp closure. Another interesting bag is studded with metal stars and signs of the zodiac; very rock chic! The Rosalie, one the key bags in the collection, remains one of the most popular pieces and this winter it will come in eel skin as well as luxe python.
One of the three “themed collections” for fall also features pieces inspired by model Veruschka, sending out a very bohemian vibe. Included are a whip stitched leather bag with fur and a woven fringed, open toe bootie. The overall feel of the collection is very luxurious and rich.
By The Bag Hag
Up on cold mountain, Dean & Dan used the same moutaineer theme of their menswear show, for their A/W 2011 womenswear collection. Their usual mix of denims and leather was worked with strong “true grit” attitude as the models strutted the catwalk, that included a log cabin and snow effects just to help them really get into character. The stylish layering of maxi skirts with cropped jackets echoed the new, longer silhouette that we’ve seen this week and the thick furs were perfect for the arctic mountain feel! The successor to the wacky, but incredibly successful, bone heel shoes came in the shape of a restructured ice skate that, although a little abstract, stayed in tune with the artic theme and as we saw “fashion maniac” Anna dello Russo leaving with her very own pair after the show, we are sure to see them on fashion pages everywhere come A/W 2011.
Maybe it was the influence of stylist Panos Yiapanis, who has recently moved to Cavalli, but the A/W 2011 collection definitely has a darker edge. This new, slightly tough and even more punk, feel gave Cavalli’s collection a new lease of life. The floating transparent skirts worked the signature leopard prints in new ways and the hand stitched brocade was used in a tougher way than we’ve seen before. It would seem Cavalli’s rock princess has found a new, darker and all together more modern and relevant path that was a refreshing offering from the historic italian label.
Come front row and backstage with us at the Versus A/W 2011 show in Milan, as we talk to Christopher Kane about some of the themes in the collection.
The highly anticipated Jil Sander Autumn/Winter womenswear show opened to howling winds and furious tweeting about Raf Simon’s bold move to reinvent the salopette. The incredible wedged heels that had a neat slit in them so that the skinny, down hill racer style, trousers could be easily looped through, were the perfect example of the attention to detail that the designer displayed throughout the whole colletion. The carefully balanced looks managed to reference couture style cuts with volumous shapes yet maintain a soft almost sporty tone.
Going back to the houses roots might mean heritage prints, but for Versace it is not quite the type of print normally associated with the word “heritage”! The bold baroque motif that curled around the sides of a lot of the collections pieces, was a nod to the houses history; as were the bold colours and chunky, logoed gold metal hardware used on the coats, dresses and bags. With a great mix of dresses in numerous lengths and cuts, the show opened with sharp, military style tailoring and closed with long, flowing gowns with feather trim that added a slightly softer edge to a very strong collection.
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